Pride and Prejudice...
White Stilton and Apricot
When it comes to ‘flavour added’ cheese, consumers can be very clearly identified into two groups, the ones who like a taste of something new, or the ‘never for me’ camp. Of course, it is a question of freedom of choice and should be respected. The trade however, have just the same prejudice, and it is never more evident than at the upcoming cheese shows, where the great and the good of cheese experts vie with each other to be the most offended at being asked to do a modern additive class, or quite simply refuse as loudly and pointedly as possible. These cheeses have, however, now become mainstream. From the first real commercial beginnings with Millway and the still popular Stilton & Apricot type that was created in the late 80’s. Like most purists, I believe I was shocked and probably initially quite repelled by the prospect of fruit and herbs in cheese, but that was the same shock that came with the invasion of frozen chips, and washed bagged salad. Regardless of the controversy surrounding mode rn B ritish cheeses, they are definitely here to stay and are worth more than £50m per year.
Simple beginnings...
The history of additive cheese is a little clouded. Probably the first experiences, like most things in cheese, were accidents. Older cheese makers have told me in the past that what the cattle were fed at certain times of the year, particularly winter, imparted flavours in the milk and then the cheese. It is said that nettles were used as an early form of rennet, with some remaining in the product to the end. David Fowler, (Fowlers of Earlswood), recreated Original Sage Derby in the mid-90s, loosely based on remembrance of a cheese his grandfather made using fresh sage, sandwiched between Derby cheese. It was a Christmas only event, as the sage went off in seven days. Today, David uses a blend of fine herbs.
Millway, having made the breakthrough on a serious commercial basis, led the growth of the sector, aided by others who already had some development of their own. Major pioneers in the market who overcame the prejudice and became industry standard bearers and have created a host of established brand names. Some of the shapes and designs of these new cheeses were patented, so revolutionary were they at the time.
Wensleydale and Cranberries
Rapid Growth...
Stilton with Apricot emerged as the customers favourite in the early 90s, but the arrival of Wensleydale & Cranberry from Wensleydale Dairy Products in Hawes saw a consumer champion emerge, giving a new lease of life to this Dales classic. A new group of makers and blenders arrived to expand the market, first imitating, then creating true originals. David Williams of Crewe Hall came in the mid-90s, gaining instant fame with Bowland, a mature Lancashire with raisins, apple and cinnamon, and more recently with Sticky Toffee and Chilli and Lime.
Amongst recent successes in additive makers is Shirevale, who from its
home in Cropwell Bishop, has pioneered a series of original types including Cappuccino and Pineapple Dream, using white Stilton.
To this list of modernistas, the who’s who of the cheese world have been added. Quickes has long had herb Cheddar as its quality contribution and Katy’s Lavender from Shepherds Purse is a true original. Lynher Valley makes the distinctive Cornish Garland, and Swaledale has put Old Peculiar Ale in its cheese for years, and does anyone doubt the credentials of these makers?
Moving on...
Bowland
It is true there have been many grim examples in this category, and there are still a few quick fix merchants. But, in the end, the thoroughbreds emerge and the opportunist and sad copiers slip away as quality emerges as the benchmark for consumers and those who retail the products. For those who carp on the sidelines, have no desire to move on and give scant recognition to the months of work and testing, customer research and development that quality makers invest to create a product and deep seated prejudice, is really not needed if quality is to be encouraged. I contrast that with Oz Clarke, whom I met years ago. He, fa r from denigrating the lower areas of populist wines, still always sought to taste and understand it, and strives to find and recommend the best in any area. Doubtless he had to take on tastings that he may have preferred to avoid, but then again, maybe he is one of the few examples of a real expert, putting his own choice and self interest behind that of the customers.
So, whether the modern British cheese is for you or not, let’s take a pride in its overall contribution to the cheese trade, refreshing the range, intriguing the consumer, attracting additional purchases and frequently being a point of entry for future would-be cheese enthusiasts. After all, many wine appreciators began with Liebfraumilch, Mateus Rose, Lambrusco and moved on to greater challenges, so why not the same with cheese? These modern British cheeses have also crossed international boundaries, and when you look in shops from Spain to the USA, or from Canada to Dubai, these familiar British cheeses will be staring right back at you, waving the flag for a modern cheese heritage that sits alongside its traditional cousins. British products attracting a world audience must surely be a source for pride.
George Paul Managing Director Bradbury and Son
